I am writing today from Odessa. We are out our friend's apartment in Odessa and already I am worrying about forgetting some details of our time here. I'll try to get the highlights and my thoughts noted here before I forget anymore.
Sunday morning we said a tearful goodbye to my wonderful host family in Amsterdam. Although the time with them was short, it was still a special time to renew friendships and build memories. We strongly encouraged them it was their turn to come visit, so perhaps in the next years we will soon be able to welcome them to our home.
Checking in for our flight to Kiev we were told they didn't have any more seats for us, but that was their problem, not ours. Turns out, we got placed into business class, and what an experience that was! There were 2 1/2 rows of business class seats in the plane, and thank goodness we were sitting in the last row! It gave us the chance to watch and figure out exactly what and how we were supposed to do things. Having never flown in first/business class, it was a definite eye-opening experience! I remember when we were younger, my sister and I would often joke about the airline staff closing the curtain between economy and first class - that somehow the first class passengers didn't want to be seen. Well, we found out the real reason for the curtain on our flight! We figured if the economy class saw what all we got as far as service and food, there would be a serious mutiny on the plane. While the people at the back of the plane (where we should have been) got pretzels and drinks, we were served a meal that you would expect to receive at the nicest 4-star restaurant - complete with china, real silverware, and even warm washcloths before the meal.
Arriving in Kiev was an emotional experience. As the plane came under the cloud cover, and we could see the landscape, I was overcome with emotion and joy. Here was the land that our future children will come from. What a beautiful, green area it seemed to be. I fought back tears as we landed, for the first time, in the country we will forever be linked to.
Immigration control and customs went so smoothly. Before we landed, the airline staff passed out immigration control cards - they have almost identical blue and yellow sections to be filled out with name, birthdate, citizenship, passport number, visa number and type, flight number and our signature. The top blue section was for arrival information, and the bottom yellow half was departure information. We simply filled out both sections and had those in hand as we departed the plane. Proceeding to passport control, we had to walk up some stairs. There was no other way to go, so getting lost was basically impossible (since we got off as one of the first, we didn't even have a large crowd to follow, but it was still very easy). We then stood in line for passport control, proceeding one at a time to a little booth. You give your passport and the completed immigration control card to the worker. It appeared they were entering the information into computers from each card. The lady who processed my card asked me a question (in English) that I couldn't hear - something about Kiev. I sort of nodded, and she was satisfied, returned my passport and immigration control card (with top blue section torn off, leaving the yellow-departure section), and waved me through. It took perhaps 2 minutes, and the majority of the time was spent with her entering my information. John proceeded just as quickly through as well.
After walking through passport control, you enter the baggage claim area. There are computer monitors in the passport control area that list each flight that has recently arrived, and which carousel your bags arrive on. The monitors switch between English and Ukrainian, and therefore it is quite simple to find which carousel your bags are on. Also in the baggage claim area are little kiosks with customs declaration forms. These are 8 1/2 by 11 pieces of paper - with one side to be filled out, and the second side with simple instructions. There were forms in English, German, Ukrainian and French. While the first kiosk didn't have any more English forms, walking further down the baggage claim area, I found additional English ones without a problem.
We filled out the customs forms - they were very simple. By the mere fact that we had over $1000 cash with us, we were directed towards the red lanes. On the forms, you designate how much exactly you have in each currency with you. Since our cash was divided between John and myself in our money belts, and I didn't know how much each of us had individually, John took off his money belt and gave it to me. That way, I completed my customs form listing all of our money, and John actually had nothing to declare and could have gone through the green lane. We picked up our luggage and went towards the exit. There is a small baggage x-ray machine you put everything on, pick it up on the other end, and then wait for a customs officer that is open. While John should have gone through the green lane, he had suitcases that they directed him to put on the x-ray machine, so ended up in the red lanes. I went up to the desk, gave the man my passport, immigration control card and customs declaration. He looked it over and asked me if I had any gifts with me. I answered yes, and told him I had some gifts that were worth maybe $50. He smiled, wrote something down, gave me back everything and I was free to go. John was right behind me, and he must have known that we were together because he simply waved John through - didn't even look at his form! It was so simple! And, this was with bringing in two huge suitcases of donations that we had picked up from garage sales, clearance sales and donations from our local hospital.
Interestingly enough, as we came up the stairs from the plane, before entering the immigration/passport control area, there were several people standing with signs of people's names. We assumed they were the ones who had elected to use the VIP service. As we were leaving the customs area, the people who had chosen the VIP service were still waiting. The total area of customs and baggage claim was very small - even smaller than the Spokane, Washington airport - hardly the size you would expect from a main airport of a country.
Leaving the customs area, there was hardly a walking path to get through, as there were throngs of people waiting! We quickly spotted our friend Vladimir, and next to him, our driver, Alexander (Sasha) with a "Marble" sign in hand. Kostya had set up a driver to transfer us from the airport to the train station, even though we wouldn't meet up with him until before our NAC appointment on the 22nd. Once we were past the waiting crowds we quickly and easy walked out of the airport and to our waiting van. We knew it had to be a good sign when the van that had been arranged for us, was the type we were looking at and admiring in Amsterdam - we thought it will be a perfect new vehicle for our growing family!
The only problem we "realized" as we were leaving the airport was when John gave me his passport back (I have been the keeper of the documents). He had thrown away his immigration control card (with the yellow part that must be surrendered when we depart) - he had thought it was garbage. But, he had thrown it away in the customs area, and we couldn't get back in, so have to simply hope we won't need it too much to leave! John just figures he might have to stay here for longer.
The drive into Kiev took about 30-40 minutes. We passed some beautiful buildings, over a nice bridge and saw some of the sights. Our driver had a friend with him and she explained various places to us in excellent English. As we arrived at the train station, we arranged with Sasha to have him keep our two large donation suitcases, as we wouldn't need them in Odessa. Vladimir did all the talking and arranging with him in Russian, so we are hoping there is no problem and we see our suitcases again Thursday morning! Vladimir, John and I went into the train station, and dropped of our extra luggage at a baggage holding area. Vladimir suggested that we not leave our valuables at the baggage area, but rather take them with us.
With only a camera and backpack with us, we then took off to see the sights. We took the metro to downtown and walked along Kreshzatik Street - a very wide main street that was completely closed to traffic, as it is every Sunday. The mass of people everywhere was incredible. There was live music, people with animals, people selling wares along the sidewalk, people walking, running, playing, strolling, laughing, sitting, watching...After looking at Independence Square, we walked up the hill on the right bank of the Dnieper River to a beautiful park. A wedding party was there taking pictures. The view of the city was breathtaking. While there was much more to see, we had an invitation for dinner at 6 PM, and so we were once again off to the metro station.
Our dinner invitation was from Chad and Mandy Smith - missionaries in Ukraine from the US. They lived on the left bank of the river, and the metro took us within a 15-minute walk of their apartment. The Smith family is cousins of our friends Sam and Jen Hoogsteen, and we were graciously welcomed into their home. They had 25 month old twins, and seeing them made me miss our little ones at home a little, but thinking about the strenous trip thus far, didn't at all question our decision to leave them home with the grandparents! We had a pleasant time and delicious dinner with them and finally left at 9:30. It was interesting to hear of their work in Ukraine, including working at the first orphanage managed by a church. Many of the children at that orphange are not available for adoption, as they are street-kids, run-aways; what an outreach and mission it is though! At 42 beds, they are completely full, and praying for possible expansion. Even though they cannot house any more students, they still actively go into the streets to spend time with, and feed, these children. Chad shared with us how much of a problem there is with street children in Ukraine, or at least, in Kiev.
As we returned from the Smith's, the metro was packed. There was hardly an extra inch of standing room! Arriving back at the railway station, we picked up our bags, and boarded the overnight train to Odessa. In a 4-person sleeping compartment, we took up 3 of those beds. The 4th bed was taken by a woman in her 50's. She was quite gracious, and kept trying to communicate with me in Russian. Sadly, I never did really understand her, even with her repeating the same words over again! She "actively" shared her bag of cherries with me (they were quite tart - perhaps pie cherries). As I finished (or not even quite) chewing one cherry, she pointed at the bag and told me to take another. If I wasn't eating them fast enough, she took to giving them directly to me!
The train was somewhat noisy, rocked and rolled, but we did fall asleep and slept quite well. In fact, I didn't wake up until 9 AM, just about 50 minutes short of arriving in Odessa. Each sleeping bed was provided with a blanket, pillow and mattress pad. As the train employee came around after departing, he collected the tickets and money for sheets. Shortly thereafter, he delivered our sheet set to us - complete in sealed plastic bag. In the bag was a pillow case, two flat sheets (one to cover the mattress pad, one for putting over us), and a washcloth. The toilet was right next to our compartment, and while it wouldn't rate at the Sheraton, it wasn't too far different from many bathrooms we use when we are camping in the US. If perhaps there are those that have never stayed in anything but 4-star hotels, then perhaps it would be a shock to your system. We would suggest a quick camping trip to a state or federal campground to prepare yourself. Certainly the pit toilets of those campgrounds are far worse than this toilet!
And so now, we are in Odessa. After arriving at the train station, we took a small bus to the stop nearest our friends apartment. We have had a quiet day, resting, getting settled, showering, and now it is about dinner time. Our friends are preparing a delicious dinner for us, and we just met Vladimir's mother-in-law, who lives in the same building, just one floor below us. After dinner, we will be heading to the Black Sea - a short 15 minute walk from Vladimir's apartment.
Landing at Kiev has not been the only emotional time throughout our first days in Ukraine. Various sights will bring on the tears and emotion of what we are here for. For as many people as we have seen, there have not been a lot of children. But, there certainly have been some. They are always well-dressed, often with bows in their hair and dressed in fancy dresses, or sporty and cute boy's clothes.
If you are still with us through this very long post, we ask for your prayers for us over the next several days. Our appointment at the NAC is coming up, and also think of Eric and Shannon, a wonderful couple from Florida we met on the flight from Amsterdam. Their appointment is Wednesday the 21st. They too, are hoping for siblings. They don't have any children themselves, so pray for them as they head to the NAC. Our time difference between here and Moscow (Pacific time) is only 10 hours. It used to be 11, and so it seems that when we "sprung forward" for daylight savings, they didn't. So, we will be at the NAC on Thursday around 9 AM. Please pray for us from around 7 PM until 11 PM Pacific time Wednesday night!
Signing off for now from Odessa! Dinner is over, and we off to the Black Sea!